At Marni, Hair Inspired by Dressage

date:09.07.2015 by:Laura Rysman,

At Marni, Hair Inspired by Dressage

On September 27, 2015, photo by Pietro D'Aprano, by Laura Rysman, via NY Times


Backstage at the Marni show this morning, creative director Consuelo Castiglioni described her vision for the spring/summer 2016 collection: “I wanted to create movement, fluidity, to focus on how pieces hang, but to make it sculptural at the same time,” she said.

Inspired by the abstract, architectural forms of the collection, the hairstylist Paul Hanlon said he looked to the pageantry of dressage. With a heavy dose of hairspray, he molded hair into swooping curves that twisted into pigtails as coiffed as the mane of a show horse. The clothes, with raw-edged, stiff fabrics (bonded satins, dry wool) were draped to create architectonic outfits, wrapping models in swaths of color. Hanlon took a similarly elemental approach. “It’s almost like Lego hair, like a stencil,” he said. “It’s like a Matisse — the hair looks like it was also cut from material, like it’s part of the clothes.”

“The Marni woman has always been a little bit spooky, but she’s always very feminine,” said makeup artist Tom Pecheux who, to complement the season’s look, wanted “everything to be monochromatic, not too ladylike, not too ‘doll.’” He used a dab of foundation on skin as well as on lips, softening the pinkness of the mouth for an all-over beige effect that was “a little more twisted and less girly.” Seeing women go overboard with the latest lash treatments and extensions inspired him to add a spidery excess of extremely long lashes “like a bonsai that hasn’t been trimmed,” he said.

The editors of Styles and T share news, observations and musings from the shows here.

 

To read more, click here.

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